At a studio in the heart of the fashion district, large glass doors opened to reveal giant mannequins covered with origami paper designs that seemed to dance to the eerie Asian-influenced soundtrack playing in the background. Racks upon racks of clothing lined the walls – ethereal pastel tunics were juxtaposed with darker, structured skirts and coats. And then the bubbly, yet reserved designer Jen Kao stuck her head around the corner to decode the mystery behind her multifaceted creations.
The contrast of ultra-feminine fluidity and street structure is mirrored in Kao’s own story. She spent her high school career focusing on becoming a doctor. But after she graduated, she pursued a double major in ceramic sculpture and studio art at New York University and a post-graduate degree at Parson’s the New School for Design. “My parents really didn’t want me to go to an arts school first,” she said. “I think they were kind of hoping I’d change my mind, but they’re so supportive now.”
Kao’s innovative line has caught the attention of many since its launch in fall 2007. A designer on the brink, she has been featured both on Style.com and in New York Magazine. This year, she had the opportunity to show her collection during New York fashion week.
Kao draws the greatest inspiration for her designs from her family and her heritage in Japanese culture. She said it bleeds into many different aspects of her work. Her past and the competing sides of her personality are reflected in the ideas behind her clothing. “People think of Japanese as very minimalist, but I’m very into embellishment too. Piecing goes with Japanese culture too and I’m very into that,” she said. “I also have a balance between something that’s feminine but is also not. I like there to be an ease and peace to the clothing, but also a life to it.”
Kao revealed how much Japanese culture really is embedded in her creations. She is obsessed with Japanese animation and cartoons and described Tokyo today as “a crazy collage of ideas.” She said the cartoons illustrate this crazy world with stories about young women, like herself, who are on the verge but are still growing. Kao said she designs clothing that would suit this young girl’s life. “Who’s the muse? I don’t really have that,” she said. “It’s usually about a young girl who’s unapologetically evolving. It’s this person I would want to be and others would hope to be.”
Her own style icons also embody this ever-evolving female protagonist. Kao said she would love to style actresses Cate Blanchett and Angelina Jolie. “They dress with simple sophistication, but look good in everything,” she said. “They embody the type of character I’m trying to reach out to and build.” Kao has already dressed singer M.I.A. and enjoyed the experience because she felt the songstress was a style icon on her own who wore her designs well. “Part of my collection is always this – blah!” she said, shaking her fists. “Not everyone can embody that.”
Like the Japanese cartoons, Kao’s collections make up a never-ending story. After discovering a boutique in Tokyo whose image matched that of her line, Kao tried dipping her toes into the retail world. The boutique picked up her collection and her designs have since exploded in Japan. With her clothing already in place overseas, Kao hopes to take her line nationwide across the United States next year. Everything she designs is a sign of her personal life and experience. “It pours out from my life and whatever I’m feeling. The collection is in itself a layered story – a collage of whatever’s inside me right now,” she said. “Even though the story changes it’s always about the unapologetic evolving girl – somebody who’s always growing.” —Jackie Perry
